Self-Cleaning Slicker Brush
Press the button and the fur lets go.
One press and the pin bed drops, so the whole mat of collected hair lifts clear. That is the difference between brushing until the job is done and brushing until you are tired of clearing the brush.
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- Button retracts the pin bed so the fur lifts off in one piece
- Fine stainless pins with rounded tips
- Reaches the undercoat without scratching skin
- One-piece body, so it rinses properly clean
- Hanging hole in the handle
Why you'll love it
Made for happy, healthy pets
The cleaning is why it gets used
A slicker full of matted hair is a job in itself, and the brush that needs picking out is the one that stays in the drawer. Pressing a button instead is the difference between brushing weekly and brushing daily.
Undercoat is where shedding comes from
The loose hair that ends up on your sofa sits under the topcoat, which is why stroking and rubber mitts only get so far. Fine pins reach it; that is the whole job of a slicker.
Rounded tips, not filed points
Cheap slickers use cut wire, and the ends scratch. Rounded tips are what makes it possible to work over bony shoulders and hips without the animal objecting.
Good fit if
- Medium and long coats that tangle between grooms
- Moulting season, when a brush fills within a few strokes
- Cats and dogs alike, with a light hand
- Anyone who currently picks fur out of pins by hand
Look elsewhere if
- You need to strip undercoat, which wants a deshedding tool
- Your animal has very short single-layer coat
- Your pet has sore or broken skin anywhere you would brush
What a slicker is for
A slicker has fine, angled pins set close together, and its job is working through tangles and lifting loose hair and debris out of the coat. It suits medium and long coats where hair mats against itself, and it is the brush most owners of a spaniel, a doodle or a long-haired cat should be using between professional grooms.
It is not a deshedding tool. Deshedding blades reach through the topcoat to rake out dead undercoat, which is a different action and the right one during a heavy moult on a double-coated dog. Using a slicker for that is slower, and using a deshedding blade on a single-coated dog scrapes the skin.
Why self-cleaning matters
A slicker fills fast on a moulting animal, sometimes within a few strokes. Picking that out by hand is fiddly, and the pins are fine enough to catch fingers, so what actually happens is that people stop brushing before the coat is done. The brush is not the limiting factor; clearing it is.
A retracting bed removes that entirely. Press the button, the pins drop below the surface, and the mat of hair lifts off as one piece. It takes a second, so the session continues rather than being interrupted, and in practice that means more of the coat actually gets brushed.
Technique
Work in small sections, brushing in the direction the coat lies, and hold the hair above the section you are working on so the pins reach the base rather than skating over the surface. Most matting forms close to the skin, behind the ears, in the armpits and where a harness sits, so those are the areas to check rather than the back.
Little and often beats occasional and long. Five minutes several times a week keeps a coat on top of itself; a half-hour session once a month is both harder work and less well tolerated. If you find a genuine mat, work it apart with fingers first rather than dragging a brush through it.
In the box
Everything you need
- Self-cleaning slicker brush
How it works
Simple, from basket to doorstep
- 1
Browse
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- 2
Order
Check out securely with card, PayPal or one-tap Apple Pay & Google Pay. Free delivery over $59.
- 3
Delivered
Fast, tracked dispatch straight to your door, and a happier pet before you know it.
The details
Specifications
- Size
- 17.5 × 11.3 × 2.4 cm
- Weight
- 90 g
- Pins
- Stainless steel, rounded tips
- Cleaning
- One-button pin retraction
- Care
- Rinse and air dry
Cleaning the brush
Clear the pins after each session and rinse the head under warm water every few weeks. The one-piece body means water does not sit inside a seam, and rinsing removes the skin oils and dander that build up on the pins and gradually make the brush drag rather than glide.
Let it air dry fully before it goes back in the drawer, and check the pin tips occasionally. The rounded tips are what stop the pins scratching, and a pin that has lost its tip or bent out of line will catch skin. A brush with damaged pins is worth replacing rather than persevering with.
Good questions
Before you buy
Not if you keep it light. A slicker works by weight of the brush, not pressure. Press down and even rounded tips will drag on the skin over the spine and hips.
Yes, though less dramatically. Short double coats like a labrador's shed heavily and the pins reach that undercoat; a genuinely single-coated dog needs a rubber curry instead.
Two or three times a week keeps most coats on top of shedding. Long-haired cats and double-coated dogs in a moult benefit from daily, in short sessions rather than long ones.
Not with a light hand. Let the pin tips work at their own weight rather than pressing, and stop if you see redness. Cats have thinner skin than dogs and are less tolerant of pressure.
Some, for lifting loose surface hair, but a rubber mitt or a bristle brush suits a short single coat better. A slicker earns its place on coats that tangle.
Five minutes several times a week for a medium or long coat, daily during a moult. Little and often is far more effective and better tolerated than an occasional long session.
Last reviewed August 30, 2026