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No-Pull Dog Harness with Front Clip

Takes the pull out of the walk.

The front ring is what makes this a no-pull harness. Clip there and a dog leaning forward turns gently towards you; clip to the back and it has its full weight available to pull with.

$16.50

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  • Front ring turns a pulling dog rather than choking them
  • Padded handle across the back for close control
  • 3M reflective strips down both sides
  • Zinc alloy buckle and rings, not plastic
  • Four adjustment points around chest and girth

Colour: Black

Size: S

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Why you'll love it

Made for happy, healthy pets

Pressure off the throat

A collar puts a lunging dog's whole weight on the windpipe. A vest spreads it across the chest, which is why vets recommend harnesses for flat-faced and small breeds in particular.

The handle is for the moments that matter

A cyclist coming past, a gate, a vet waiting room. Being able to take hold of the dog itself rather than reeling in a lead is worth more than any feature on the walk.

Seen from further away

3M reflective tape lights up in headlights at a distance a light-coloured coat does not, which matters on winter afternoons more than at night.

Good fit if

  • Dogs that pull hard enough to make walks unpleasant
  • Flat-faced breeds, where pressure on the throat is a real concern
  • Reactive dogs needing a handle for close control
  • Winter and evening walking, with reflective on both sides

Look elsewhere if

  • Your dog already walks nicely on a flat collar
  • You need something you can put on in one movement
  • You want a harness for a cat, which needs a different cut

How a front clip works

A lead clipped between the shoulder blades leaves the dog facing forward with the whole of its body behind the pull. That is the same geometry used on sled dogs, and it is efficient, which is exactly the problem when the dog is towing you down a pavement.

Moving the attachment to the chest changes the direction of the force. When the dog leans forward, the lead pulls the chest sideways and the dog rotates gently back towards you. Nothing tightens and nothing causes discomfort; the dog simply cannot make forward progress by pulling, and most dogs adjust within a few walks.

It is a management tool rather than training on its own. A front clip makes the walk manageable immediately, which then gives you the space to reward loose-lead walking. Dogs that are never taught the behaviour will go back to pulling as soon as the harness comes off.

Why a harness rather than a collar

Every pull on a flat collar puts force through the throat, over the trachea and the thyroid. For a dog that never pulls, that is unremarkable. For a dog that leans into the lead on every walk it is repeated pressure on structures that do not tolerate it well, and in flat-faced breeds and small dogs with narrow tracheas the margin is smaller still.

A harness spreads the same load across the chest and shoulders, which is broad, muscled and built for it. The padded handle across the back is a separate benefit: it gives you a direct hold for lifting a dog into a car or steadying one that has reacted to something, without hauling on the lead.

Hardware and visibility

Metal buckles and rings matter on a harness for a dog that pulls, because the load goes through them every single walk. Plastic hardware fatigues without warning and tends to fail at the worst moment, usually mid-lunge at something across the road. Zinc alloy costs a little more and gives out gradually rather than suddenly.

Reflective strips down both sides do a job that a reflective collar cannot, simply because of area. A driver sees a moving shape rather than a point of light, and the fact that it runs along the flank means the dog is visible when crossing rather than only when facing the car. It works only in headlights though, so for genuinely dark lanes a lit collar is the better tool.

In the box

Everything you need

  • No-pull harness

How it works

Simple, from basket to doorstep

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The details

Specifications

Material
Padded polyester mesh
Hardware
Zinc alloy buckle and rings
Reflective
3M Scotchlite strips
Lead points
Front ring and back ring
Chest sizes
40–105 cm depending on size

Size guide

SizeChest girthTypical breeds
S40–60 cmJack Russell, Miniature Dachshund, small terrier
M55–70 cmCocker Spaniel, Beagle, Border Collie
L66–90 cmLabrador, Boxer, German Shepherd
XL78–105 cmRottweiler, Great Dane, larger mastiff types

Measure the chest at its deepest point, just behind the front legs, with the tape snug but not tight. Breeds are a guide only. Where your measurement falls between two sizes, take the larger and use the four adjustment points to bring it in.

Loved by real pet parents

4.7· 113 reviews

My dog loves it

My dog loves it! He's a golden Retriever so we ordered it in XL, it fits him perfectly.

E***q

Good questions

Before you buy

Put a tape around the deepest part of the chest, just behind the front legs, and pick the band that number falls in. Where a dog sits on a boundary, size up: every strap adjusts down, none adjusts beyond its range.

The front one while a dog is still learning not to pull. Clipping at the chest turns them back towards you instead of letting them lean forward. Move to the back ring once they walk on a loose lead.

Not if the girth strap is snug enough that two fingers fit under it and no more. Most escapes come from leaving it a hole too loose.

Put a soft tape around the deepest part of the chest, just behind the front legs, and pull it snug without compressing. Use that figure against the table above rather than the dog's weight.

The front ring for a dog that pulls, since that is what turns them. The back ring is fine once loose-lead walking is reliable, or for jogging where you want the dog out in front.

Correctly fitted, no. The usual cause is a girth strap left too loose. You should be able to slide two fingers flat under any strap and no more, and the harness should not shift when you tug it upwards.

Last reviewed August 30, 2026

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